Naturally dyed
apparel
Unless you went to art school, you probably haven’t seen many brands making clothes that are dyed naturally. A bit surprising, given that in the past few years, the label “plant-based” has been slapped onto hundreds of products from face masks to dish soap. Everyone wants to market their products as natural.
These brands are the real deal.
The apparel featured is dyed 100% with pigment that comes from the earth. We asked our favorite NYC-based designers to describe their favorite natural materials to work with, where they get inspiration for designs, and why natural dyeing is so important to them.
Nia Thomas’s work speaks for itself—her designs have been featured in Vogue, Forbes, Nylon, and New York Magazine, just to name a few. A year after she graduated from FIT, she launched her own independent brand and has been committed to sustainable ethics. Her knitwear is perfect for the final months of winter, and her scarves are a sweet transition into early spring.
“My favorite natural dyeing material to use is cochineal. Cochineal is an insect that grows on cactuses. The traditional natural dye for coloring textiles in South and Central America has been used for beautiful scarlets, pinks, and reds for centuries. Cochineal was so important in Mexico that the Aztec ruler, Moctezuma I, levied an annual tribute of cochineal dye on dependent states in the 15th century and cochineal became Mexico’s second most valuable export after silver in the colonial period.
The reason I love cochineal the most is because I can achieve a range of reds and pinks on a deep spectrum that compliments most skin tones. It looks exquisite on silk charmeuse; the sheen of the fabric makes the color pop.
Focusing on refined fabrics, exquisite details, and immaculate construction, my most recent designs draw inspiration from my past, present, and future. From the places I have visited all over the world distinct senses, the mysterious nature of the deserts of Morocco to the vibrant coast of Kauai as well as my present understanding of what our customer responds to— a timeless perspective with subtle attitudes which form an irreverent signature. Concluding with my future, my intrepid nature to discover new textures ranging from a chunky hand knitted seed stitch to a lightweight silk organza that bounces and floats as the wearer glides. I want to give each piece an intimate touch and to highlight the clothes’ uncompromising quality and creative freedom.
I learned about natural dyeing when I was a student at the Fashion Institute of Technology. I was designing something with recycled wool yarn that I found at a garage sale, and the color was very dull. My professor recommended I dye it with tea leaves. I didn’t even know this was possible to do at the time. From there, I started experimenting with substances I had in my garden, from turmeric to onion skins and dried roses. Six years later and I’m still experimenting with natural dyes because I feel connected to the Earth and my ancestors when I do. Nature is the most photogenic thing that exists, in my opinion, and I suppose I am using its beauty in creating my designs to pay homage and return to my roots.”